I Want To Eat That  
 
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VOLT - Frederick, MD 11.28.2009

When I was back in Maryland for Thanksgiving, I seized the opportunity to visit VOLT, the restaurant run by Chef Bryan Voltaggio, a contestant on this season of Top Chef (and second only to Kevin in my eyes).  The restaurant is gorgeous, and the menu is inventive.  Chef Bryan uses fresh, local ingredients -- everything from the pork personally-delivered by the farmer to the coffee roasted in a nearby town.

VOLT

It took us 3.5 hours to complete the Six Course Kitchen Tasting Menu.  I love long, delicious meals.  The tasting menu is served near the kitchen – I have some photos of Chef Bryan, but he was constantly working.  I watched him work – and he came out to serve our beef course – and he was very serious, just like he is on the show.  He also had a ton of people working back there with him – probably about 10 people that I could see, not to mention a large staff of waiters and bussers.

Bryan Voltaggio

The cocktail menu was awesome.  They had it divided into “classic” and “current” cocktails.  I got a Pomegranate Fizz – gin, mint, pomegranate juice, and soda water; and my fellow diners got a Sidecar and a heavenly-sounding apple/ginger beer concoction (unfortunately, it's not on the menu online and I can’t recall the name).  The unimaginative alcoholic in the group got the vodka on the rocks with three olives. 

Booze

We started with some amuse-bouche, compliments of Chef Bryan.  There was a Sweet and Sour Macaroon filled with Guacamole (the outer shell just melted in your mouth), a Chickpea Falafel, and something I didn’t write down properly - with Braised Lamb Tongue on top.  All delicious.

Amuse

There were several different breads to choose from, including this buttermilk biscuit and bacon brioche.  I can always get behind bread with bacon in it.

Bread

What common people would call “soup”, Chef Bryan calls Shiitake Veloute with Pine Nut Sabayon, Chili Oil, and Basil.  It was delicious.

Veloute

For the next course, my dining companion had the Hudson Valley Duck Liver with Seckel Pears, Pistachio, Anise, and Vanilla Brioche.  It was my first time trying duck liver and it wasn’t bad.

Duck Liver

I had the Goat Cheese Ravioli with Butternut Squash, Sage Brown Butter, Chanterelle Mushrooms and what was referred to as “sage air.”  That’s right – I ate air, and it was delicious.  The goat cheese was really flavorful; I loved this.

Ravioli

Monkfish Tail Quinoa with Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Salsify, and Prosciutto Broth.  I’m pretty sure I could drink prosciutto broth.

Monkfish

Iberico-Red Wattle Pork Belly with Cranberry Beans, Calypso Beans, Petite Red Ribbon Sorrel and Mostarda.  It was garnished with a pancetta chip.  The pork belly was outstanding – great flavor without being the hunk of fat I would expect from pork belly.  Much like the proscuitto broth, they should package these pancetta chips – I’d eat them by the bag. 

Pork Belly

Pineland Farm Beef Strip with Ratte Potatoes, Broccoli, Dragon Carrots, and Garlic Transparency.  Once again, I ate invisible food.  It was transparent, and good.  This beef was amazing - seasoned and cooked to perfection.  I could have eaten an entire entree portion of this, for sure.

Beef Strip

Finally, for dessert, Textures of Chocolate – White Chocolate Ganache, Milk Chocolate Ice Cream, and Chocolate Caramel.  Though the ganache looked disconcertingly like the duck liver in presentation, it was outstanding.  They have an extensive coffee menu as well, and I chose Highlander Grogg - a delicious coffee with hints of caramel.

Textures of Chocolate

Finally, we were presented with little ice cream sandwiches, and spice muffins to take home. 

Ice Cream SandwichesMuffins

VOLT is a cozy, warm, big-city-quality restaurant -- in Frederick, Maryland of all places -- and definitely worth a visit.  I’ll be coming back for the 21 course menu at Table 21 next time I’m in town.  I’m up to the challenge!